The search continues. I'm using Xfce at the moment, which is superb: very light, very fast, very intuitive. The file manager, Thunar, is excellent; not dissimilar from pcmanfm, but without the deletion drawback. I'm really happy with it after a solid week's use. To install in Ubuntu, just do sudo aptitude install xubuntu-desktop, and you're away.
A tip for Firefox (and Swiftfox) users: I've personally always disliked the default radio buttons, checkboxes and other form-based paraphernalia in Firefox, and I stumbled over this. Makes a huge difference.
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